Nature

Diving in Montenegro: Wrecks, Caves and Cold Layers

Montenegro dives better than its reputation. The bay has wrecks, the outer coast has caves and walls, and both have a temperature quirk worth knowing before you get in.

The cold layer

Karst springs push cold fresh water into the Bay of Kotor, including from the seabed. The result is a halocline and thermocline — a visible, shimmering boundary where fresh meets salt, often between five and fifteen metres, with a sharp temperature drop through it.

In August you can have 26 degrees at the surface and 16 below the layer. Divers who planned a shortie on the basis of the surface temperature come up cold. A 5 mm suit is the sensible default in the bay all season.

Visibility by month

Bay of KotorOpen coast
April – May8 – 15 m15 – 25 m
June – August10 – 20 m20 – 35 m
September – October15 – 25 m25 – 40 m
After heavy rainDrops sharply for daysLess affected

September and early October are the best diving of the year — warmest water, best visibility, and the boats are no longer competing for space.

The wrecks

  • Tihany — a Hungarian steamer sunk in 1917, lying around 30 – 40 m off the Luštica coast. The signature dive here and one for experienced divers.
  • Goritzia — an Italian freighter, shallower, broken up, good for penetration training.
  • Patrol boats and small craft scuttled around the bay, several within recreational limits.
  • Submarine pens at Rose and Luštica — cut into the rock for Yugoslav navy submarines, and divable at their entrances.

Montenegro's naval history means the seabed is genuinely littered. Some sites are protected and require a permit through the dive centre, which they arrange as routine.

Caves and walls

The outer coast around Luštica, Žanjice and Mamula has caverns, swim-throughs and drop-offs. Visibility there is Adriatic-standard — twenty-five metres is normal in September — and the terrain is more interesting than the inner bay.

Mamula island itself, the Austro-Hungarian fortress, has diving around its base among the fallen masonry.

What it costs

Single guided dive with kit€45 – €65
Two-tank boat day€80 – €120
Try dive / discover scuba€60 – €90
Open Water course€350 – €450
Wreck or deep speciality€200 – €300

Centres operate out of Herceg Novi, Bijela, Tivat, Budva and Bar. Most run from April or May to October.

What you will see

The Adriatic is not a reef sea. Expect octopus, moray, scorpionfish, sea bream, occasional grouper, nudibranchs on the walls, and a great deal of very good rock architecture. The wrecks are the draw rather than the fish life.

Practical

  • Bring your certification card — centres check it properly
  • Insurance — check that your travel policy covers diving to your planned depth; many exclude it
  • Nearest chamber is in Croatia; centres know the evacuation route
  • 5 mm suit even in August, because of the layer

Book locally

Run by a licensed operator in Žabljak. Send a request, pay the operator on the day.

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