Getting here

Driving Rules That Catch Foreigners Out

Montenegrin traffic law is mostly what you would expect. The four rules that are not are the four that get foreigners fined, and one of them applies before you have left the airport car park.

Headlights on, all day, all year

Dipped headlights are compulsory twenty-four hours a day, in July sunshine as much as in December fog. Rental cars mostly have automatic lights, but not all of them, and the fine is issued to the driver rather than the company.

The alcohol limit is effectively zero

The legal limit is 0.03%, which is roughly a third of the UK limit and low enough that one beer with lunch can put you over it. Newly qualified and professional drivers face a stricter, near-zero limit. Police checks on the coast road in season are frequent and not decorative.

What has to be in the boot

A vehicle registered in Montenegro must carry a specific kit. Hire cars have it, but check before you drive off, because the fine lands on you and not on the company you rented from.

  • A reflective vest — kept inside the cabin, not in the boot, because you have to put it on before you get out
  • A warning triangle
  • A first aid kit
  • A spare bulb set
  • A tow rope
  • In winter, from 15 November to 31 March, winter tyres or chains on the northern roads

Fines are paid on the spot, and they are real

OffenceTypical fine
Driving without headlights€40 – €100
No seatbelt€40 – €100
Phone in hand€60 – €150
Speeding, up to 20 km/h over€60 – €150
Speeding, more than 50 km/h overSeveral hundred euros upward, plus possible ban
Over the alcohol limitSeveral hundred euros upward, plus possible ban

Fines can be collected on the spot, and for serious violations range far higher, with possible driving bans. Ask for a receipt every time. A refusal to issue one is the signal that something is wrong with the transaction rather than with your driving. Amounts change, so treat the table as a guide to scale rather than an exact tariff.

Speed limits

  • Built-up areas: 50 km/h
  • Open road: 80 km/h
  • Dual carriageway: 100 km/h
  • The Bar–Boljare motorway section: 130 km/h

The open-road limit matters more than it looks. Much of the coast road is 80, and the average speed you actually achieve there in August is closer to 35.

Two roads worth knowing about in advance

The Kotor–Lovćen serpentine climbs the wall behind Kotor in twenty-five hairpins. It is single track in places with passing spots, and the drop is unfenced. It is perfectly drivable in a normal car and perfectly terrifying if nobody warned you. Go up rather than down if you have the choice — you sit on the inside.

The Piva canyon road to Šćepan Polje runs through a long series of narrow, mostly unlit tunnels, several barely wide enough for two cars. Dip your lights, sound the horn before blind ones, and do not stop inside them for photographs.

The Sozina tunnel

The roughly 4 km tunnel between Podgorica and the coast charges a flat toll of around €2.50 for a car (check the current rate) and saves roughly forty minutes over the old road across Krsac. It is the only toll in the country and it is worth paying. The old road is scenic, slow, and full of lorries avoiding the same toll.

Book locally

Run by a licensed operator in Žabljak. Send a request, pay the operator on the day.

More in Getting here

Getting herePodgorica or Tivat: Which Airport to Fly IntoMontenegro has two international airports 80 km apart. Which one to pick depends on where you are actually going, and the answer is not the one most people book. Getting hereRenting a Car in Montenegro: The Deposit and the Green CardWhat a hire car in Montenegro actually costs once the deposit, the cross-border paperwork and the gravel-road exclusion are counted. Getting hereThe Coastal Bus: Herceg Novi to Ulcinj Without a CarReal fares, how often buses run, where you buy the ticket and the one charge nobody mentions until you are at the counter.