Food and drink

Burek in Montenegro: The Rules

Burek is the standard breakfast across this whole region and it costs about two and a half euros. There is one naming rule and getting it wrong is the most common small mistake visitors make.

The rule

Burek is made with meat. That is the definition. The same pastry filled with something else has a different name — it is a *pita*, and the filling names it.

FillingCalled
Minced meatBurek
CheeseSirnica
Spinach and cheeseZeljanica
PotatoKrompiruša
PumpkinTikvenica
Apple, sweetPita s jabukama

How to order

By weight, not by piece. It comes coiled in a large round pan and is cut to whatever you ask for.

  • Pola kile — half a kilo, a proper breakfast for one hungry person
  • Dvjesta grama — 200 g, a snack
  • It is sold hot, wrapped in paper, eaten standing or in the car
  • €2.50 – €3.50 for a substantial portion

What it comes with

Jogurt — drinking yoghurt, thin, sour, served cold in a glass or a bottle. This is not optional in the way that ketchup is not optional with chips. The fat and salt of the pastry against the acidity of the yoghurt is the entire point of the combination.

Ordering burek without yoghurt is allowed and slightly odd. Ordering it with coffee is what people who are late for work do.

When

Breakfast, mainly — bakeries have it from six in the morning. Also very late at night, which is the other time bakeries are busy, for reasons related to the bars closing. Between about eleven and six in the evening it is less common and what is left has been sitting.

Freshly out of the oven is a different thing from an hour old. In a busy bakery there is a new pan every twenty minutes and you can see it.

Where

A pekara — a bakery — rather than a café or a restaurant. Every town has several, they are open early, and the ones with a queue at seven in the morning are the ones to use.

The best burek in the country is generally agreed to be inland rather than on the coast, in Podgorica, Nikšić and the northern towns, where it is a daily food rather than something sold to visitors.

The other thing to try

Priganice — small fried dough balls, served hot with honey, cheese or kajmak. Traditionally a welcome for guests. Some bakeries and most konobas in the north do them, and they cost almost nothing.

Book locally

Run by a licensed operator in Žabljak. Send a request, pay the operator on the day.

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